Cracking SMC Venom

[RedRebelCustoms]

If you are going to be painting flesh tone mighr I add my prefered method. I use a lot of differenr techniques but mostly play it by ear. My approach with both light skin and dark is the opposite of most people. I work backwards from other customizers. For fair to tan skin, I start with a light base. Then do a wash with a shadow tint. These are all Testors MM by the way. After the wash drys I drybrush with a warm tint and repeat until it is evenly blended. Then I add a very small amount of light to the warm and drybrush leaving the area of the previous warm around the edges blended. Then I add a little more light to the warm and hit the higher areas in the middle of the muscles again until it blends in. After that, I get a toothbrush and dab it in a mixed red and warm tint. You can go darker, lighter or even brown. I use a piece of paper and flick that paint against the paper until I get a fine even mist. Then I use the same method to add blemishes on the skin. Too much splatter and he has chicken pox or worse. Use light base to paint any veins invat this point. I then thin my paint a little more than usual, I normally only slightly thin on the previous layers, to create a smoother paint to drybrush over parts of the blemishes where it was too much and hit the high areas again. The eye bags/ lids, corners of the nose, and crevice on the sides of the cheeks leading down to the mouth are done with a 50/50 red and warm tint. Then a brown colored pencil is used to add body hair and dark circles around the eyes. 5 o'clock shadow is made by creating a hair pattern on the jaw or bald head with a fine point needle and using oil paint but that's a whole other process. This should all ne sealed at different stages and generously when finished with a matte sealant. My WIP was started from the first warm layer I believe. Dark skin, unless it's really, really dark, I paint with the same techniques except I start with the darkest flesh as a base and work lighter. I know that doesn't sound right but darker skin does not show detail as much. As long as you don't go too light, except veins, it looks more textured and can be added to easier. For adding skin texture you can take a rough sand paper press hard into the plastic on softer parts before painting and nudge slightly to the side. This creates the appearance of pores.

[RedRebelCustoms]

Hair pattern can be added after painting using a sharp colored pencil of the desired color and sealed after.

[RedRebelCustoms]

If you or anyone would like to see a wip of the fkesh tone technique I'd be happy to post one.

[loosecollector]

If you or anyone would like to see a wip of the fkesh tone technique I'd be happy to post one.

We all would love to see and appreciate that my friend .

[Bloodywolf]

Indeed we would. Thanks for all the tips

[RedRebelCustoms]

Still lots of work to do here. It was a commission that fell through months ago. I'll get around to finishing him someday. Sorry for the bad pics but these are the only photos I have of my skin tone wip's. Here he is Mr. Bill Goldberg!

[RedRebelCustoms]

LC, I have no idea what you guys would hope to get from this but as requested sirs!

[Bloodywolf]

Hey guys, its been a while since Ive updated this but I finally started making progress. I settled on the head from the CNC Bane and have him cracked and prepped for paint. However I have run into a problem. The upper and lower body BOTH have holes. No peg to connect them! Here are some pics of what Im talking about.


Here are a couple pics of the upper body balanced on the lower body to show what it will look like once I figure out how to connect it.




Any suggestions on how I can get this connected? Preferably without losing the waist articulation?

[Darththomas]

Nuts and bolts? Or maybe something from another figure that could do the job?

[RedRebelCustoms]

If you cut off two parts of a midsection from any figure, could be a cheap Ruthless Agression since they have a good swivel, get some plastic epoxy glue. Sand the part to be glued so it sits flush. Glue one part to each halve. Plastic epoxy holds 4,000lbs. Cover with sculpt. Sand smooth. I used the same method for my Killer Croc.

[ẈĀŦƧĦĪƧ₣Ā₵Ė]

I've seen people use magnets for waist joints before, you can buy magnets that are the perfect size and shape for a waist joint and they even sell ones strong enough that there nearly impossible to pry apart.

[RedRebelCustoms]

Magnets are an option. The size you would need would most likely have a gauss of around 14000 and a pull force of just under 30lbs unless you plan on further modding the area. If you go that route you could add more options. I wouldn't sugges lt more than one neodymium at that size. Magnets come with a few set backs as well. The pull force can loosen glue, magnets and metal can add weight in unwanted places, at 30lbs- you can't put the figure near metal or electronics. The biggest benefit IMO would be if you had intentions of posing one half say coming out of the ceiling or climbing walls or wanted to make a large symbiote mass base.

[Bloodywolf]

Thanks guys. I'll give these a try I'll let you know how it turns out.