My first steps into customization.

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My first steps into customization.

Postby Masochism » Fri Jul 25, 2014 1:28 pm

This is my first post, so please be gentle.

It says not to post completed works in the work station, so I will post this here. This is my first repaint of a figure.

I bought this Funko Duny off of eBay for like two bucks with the intention of repainting it.

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All I have are cheap acrylics so I knew this one would be a crude rough draft in a new direction for me.

This is how it turned out:

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I would like to take this opportunity to ask for advice on what paints to use for figure painting.

    - What brand do you all trust most?
    - Are there brushes you like more than others for figure painting?
    - How do you hold the figure steady. I know holding it with my hands is not the conducive to this type of project. Is there a model stand of some sort?
    - Drying: Do you let them air dry or use a heat gun?

Thanks everyone, I look forward to being a part of this forum and getting to know some of you. Cheers!
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Re: My first steps into customization.

Postby IZORx10 » Sun Aug 17, 2014 10:44 am

I haven't made any serious customs before but I think you did a great job
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Re: My first steps into customization.

Postby Darththomas » Mon Aug 18, 2014 1:32 pm

Here's an FAQ a couple of us put together, should answer most of your questions viewtopic.php?f=15&t=41631

You can get stands to help you hold figures, not sure where from though and you should always let your paints air dry heating them can mess them up pretty bad.
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WIP viewtopic.php?f=25&t=25093
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Re: My first steps into customization.

Postby Danyx Eleven » Wed Aug 20, 2014 2:51 am

The FAQ Darththomas mentioned really helps and also check out the tutorial page: http://www.figurerealm.com/viewcustomtutorial.php

It has just about everything a beginner needs to know, plus lots of extra stuff. It'll tell you what brands of what are decent, too.

To directly answer your question, I use Testors but I've never tried any of the other high quality acrylics. Good rule of thumb: A good paint for figures won't be with art supplies, it will be with models. And also, try to avoid enamels and gloss unless you know that's what you want (they tend to be shinier than regular acrylics, plus enamels are hard to paint over from what I've heard). I dunno if its the same for other brands, but Testors colors will say "Flat [color]" if it's not a gloss (or metallic), and it'll say Acrylic or Enamel somewhere on the jar.

A big big big thing (which may not be an issue for you, judging by your lines) is a fine detail brush. Faces will be impossible on small figures without one.I have both a 4/0 (aka 0000) and a 5/0 for that. Anyway, the tutorials will be more help than I could ever be, but I figured I'd toss in more than a link.
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Re: My first steps into customization.

Postby Truwe316 » Wed Aug 20, 2014 6:19 am

Danyx Eleven wrote:The FAQ Darththomas mentioned really helps and also check out the tutorial page: http://www.figurerealm.com/viewcustomtutorial.php

It has just about everything a beginner needs to know, plus lots of extra stuff. It'll tell you what brands of what are decent, too.

To directly answer your question, I use Testors but I've never tried any of the other high quality acrylics. Good rule of thumb: A good paint for figures won't be with art supplies, it will be with models. And also, try to avoid enamels and gloss unless you know that's what you want (they tend to be shinier than regular acrylics, plus enamels are hard to paint over from what I've heard). I dunno if its the same for other brands, but Testors colors will say "Flat [color]" if it's not a gloss (or metallic), and it'll say Acrylic or Enamel somewhere on the jar.

A big big big thing (which may not be an issue for you, judging by your lines) is a fine detail brush. Faces will be impossible on small figures without one.I have both a 4/0 (aka 0000) and a 5/0 for that. Anyway, the tutorials will be more help than I could ever be, but I figured I'd toss in more than a link.


Just avoid enamels all together. Even the EXTREMELY rare time that it MIGHT dry on the plastic, it will be probably be tacky.

Unfortunately, there is no real answer to "best paint" as it really comes down to what you prefer. Myself, I have used Citadel, P3, Testors Model Masters, Vallejo, Tamayia (see where I am going with this) but I prefer Vallejo and I think Tamayia is extremely hard to work with. That's just my opinion. I know guys like Loose Collector love (or used to love, not sure what he is using these days) Tamayia. Of course, I also believe that no matter what paint you use, it will be garbage without using primer.

For brushes, I prefer the Citadel brushes but, again, that is through preference. I do know I had horrible luck with brushes from Hobby Lobby. Citadel uses sable hair for their brushes.

I usually just paint by using a figure stand where the foot pegs into the stand. I know some guys use clamps.

I have a hair dryer to dry between detail coats, but usually after priming, after base coating, and before and after sealing, I let the figure dry for over 24 hours to let the paint cure properly.
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Re: My first steps into customization.

Postby Danyx Eleven » Thu Aug 21, 2014 5:12 am

Truwe316 wrote:
Danyx Eleven wrote:The FAQ Darththomas mentioned really helps and also check out the tutorial page: http://www.figurerealm.com/viewcustomtutorial.php

It has just about everything a beginner needs to know, plus lots of extra stuff. It'll tell you what brands of what are decent, too.

To directly answer your question, I use Testors but I've never tried any of the other high quality acrylics. Good rule of thumb: A good paint for figures won't be with art supplies, it will be with models. And also, try to avoid enamels and gloss unless you know that's what you want (they tend to be shinier than regular acrylics, plus enamels are hard to paint over from what I've heard). I dunno if its the same for other brands, but Testors colors will say "Flat [color]" if it's not a gloss (or metallic), and it'll say Acrylic or Enamel somewhere on the jar.

A big big big thing (which may not be an issue for you, judging by your lines) is a fine detail brush. Faces will be impossible on small figures without one.I have both a 4/0 (aka 0000) and a 5/0 for that. Anyway, the tutorials will be more help than I could ever be, but I figured I'd toss in more than a link.


Just avoid enamels all together. Even the EXTREMELY rare time that it MIGHT dry on the plastic, it will be probably be tacky.

Unfortunately, there is no real answer to "best paint" as it really comes down to what you prefer. Myself, I have used Citadel, P3, Testors Model Masters, Vallejo, Tamayia (see where I am going with this) but I prefer Vallejo and I think Tamayia is extremely hard to work with. That's just my opinion. I know guys like Loose Collector love (or used to love, not sure what he is using these days) Tamayia. Of course, I also believe that no matter what paint you use, it will be garbage without using primer.

For brushes, I prefer the Citadel brushes but, again, that is through preference. I do know I had horrible luck with brushes from Hobby Lobby. Citadel uses sable hair for their brushes.

I usually just paint by using a figure stand where the foot pegs into the stand. I know some guys use clamps.

I have a hair dryer to dry between detail coats, but usually after priming, after base coating, and before and after sealing, I let the figure dry for over 24 hours to let the paint cure properly.


Thanks for the tip on enamels; I've never used them but I know they're really hard to use for customs. That's why, I guess.

To add onto brush type, yeah, don't use the super fun pack brushes, they usually suck. I have some Testors brushes that are already having bristles fray and come loose (I'm in the process of painting my second custom with these brushes, so they only lasted one full job). Camel hair is usually best, but some (very big SOME) synthetic brushes are decent. My rule of thumb is pick each brush from the individual selection, where each brush is $2+. You usually pay for what you get, though my 5/0 was 1.89 because it was on clearance (the brush itself is fine, but it's one of those ones with a grip on it and it's more annoying than helpful, I usually hold it down on the metal anyway though). My 4/0 was $5.xx though, which is roughly what my set of 4 Testors brushes cost.

I don't want to denounce a primer because it might be really helpful, but I personally only make sure to put on a base coat of flat white. My first custom has some of the original color showing through (and it was a really light tan showing through a dark gray), so a base coat is definitely helpful. As for paint drying, I usually put a coat on and then screw around online for a few minutes before the next coat. You don't wanna put the next coat on before the paint is dry enough. But like Truwe said, 24 hours is a good amount of time for both final coat and letting sculpt cure before painting.

Also I forgot to mention it and didn't see it in the thread, make sure you wash your figures before painting and sculpting because of the factory release grase. There's a tutorial for that, too, so check it out.
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Re: My first steps into customization.

Postby Truwe316 » Thu Aug 21, 2014 6:06 am

Hmmm. Danyx, if had you used primer on your first custom, such as a white primer, that tan wouldn't have shown through thus proving the point of primer, to make the base a solid color. Plus, it makes painting a LOT easier. Unless you like making paint more hard, then that is cool too I guess. :D

Primer helps to bond the paint to figure. This allows you to put on less coats of paint to help with avoiding joint rub and also makes the paint more durable.

With brushes, if you are buying decent ones, then they shouldn't be breaking down after your second custom, especially if you are cleaning them properly. I have had the Citadel brushes for well over a year and they are still not fraying. Granted, they were about $5 a pop, but I have gotten will over 100 customs out of them so far.

I have been doing customs for over ten years and I am still picking the brains of guys that have been doing it even longer. One little tidbit that I will give that a small percentage of customizers have given me (thanks OJJ, Horton's Heroes, and Fast Freddie along with a few others), prime your figures with Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric Coating found at auto stores. My God, did priming and painting get a million times easier and the durability of my customs increased. Oh, and it allows you to paint capes after priming with that.

Image

Take it from experience, use primer. If you want to sell them and avoid returns, use primer.
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Re: My first steps into customization.

Postby Danyx Eleven » Fri Aug 22, 2014 4:43 am

Truwe316 wrote:Hmmm. Danyx, if had you used primer on your first custom, such as a white primer, that tan wouldn't have shown through thus proving the point of primer, to make the base a solid color. Plus, it makes painting a LOT easier. Unless you like making paint more hard, then that is cool too I guess. :D

Primer helps to bond the paint to figure. This allows you to put on less coats of paint to help with avoiding joint rub and also makes the paint more durable.

With brushes, if you are buying decent ones, then they shouldn't be breaking down after your second custom, especially if you are cleaning them properly. I have had the Citadel brushes for well over a year and they are still not fraying. Granted, they were about $5 a pop, but I have gotten will over 100 customs out of them so far.

I have been doing customs for over ten years and I am still picking the brains of guys that have been doing it even longer. One little tidbit that I will give that a small percentage of customizers have given me (thanks OJJ, Horton's Heroes, and Fast Freddie along with a few others), prime your figures with Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric Coating found at auto stores. My God, did priming and painting get a million times easier and the durability of my customs increased. Oh, and it allows you to paint capes after priming with that.

Image

Take it from experience, use primer. If you want to sell them and avoid returns, use primer.


I'll have to try the primer for sure; my most recent custom needed about 2 or 3 coats of white to start painting over it.

But yeah, that's what I'm saying about brushes; cheap, low quality ones will fall apart real easily (like the set of 4 I got for 6 bucks), but my $5+ apiece brushes are not just holding up better, but they do a better job at painting, too. So I'm going to replace my cheap brushes with better ones asap.
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