Shading help >_<
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Shading help >_<

Posted in Custom Workstation

This is the first time I've dry-brushed anything so I'm looking for some constructive feedback!

I painted the figure black then dry-brushed the red onto it because apparently that's how I'm supposed to do it :P (I didn't like washes so I did it this way). I have to finish her head but she has a nice replacement for now. Jay said the red looked a little too dark (might just be the camera) so how do I fix that? Keep adding more red?



Posted by Henchmen4Hire
on Tuesday, November 28, 2006
User Comments
Buzzy Fret -
Wednesday, December 6, 2006
woo-hoo - XF-15 is what I ordered from Hobby Inc. I hope it shows up today.

I was getting ready to ask you a few painting tip questions too Kyle - thanx for the assist.

dammit - I knew I should have got the Elf Flesh but I don't know why I went the way I did...

I'm going to start a new thread on painting that I sure would appreciate both of your input on.
Kyle Robinson -
Wednesday, December 6, 2006
The way I do it sometimes doc is just paint like a small area over the red with your black (get it in the detail real nice) and before it drys, genty wipe off with your thumb. do it over and over to the whole thing. you get what I mean? gets your thumb all messy but it won't kill ya. look at my hobgoblin.



and maybe Ill do a tutorial for you Buzzy on painting eyes. Im getting pretty good at it. anime style and normal (see pics of my eye paint below)





also buzzy, I like Tamiya Color XF-15 Flat Flesh for doing my flesh. used it in both above pics. Its two part acylic with built in sealer and holds up great on joints.
Henchmen4Hire -
Wednesday, December 6, 2006
I use the Elf Flesh and darken it if I have to, depending on the figure's skin color (duh xD) It's cheaper than buying all the flesh paints.

I've never painted a face but I'm going to have to with my Curare custom >_<
Buzzy Fret -
Wednesday, December 6, 2006
thanx Doc!

unfortunately my digital camera sux bad - cheap HP I got a couple years ago when office depot was blowing them out.

I'm pretty sure my mistakes were

1. too much paint on the brush
2. not allowing enough time for it to cure between coats

I'm waiting on an order I placed for some Tamiya Flesh color to come in before I try anything. the Citadel Flesh ones are too confusing for me - Dwarf, Elf, etc - why don't they have plain old tuna fish on white bread eating Honkey Flesh? The Dwarf Flesh made the face look like she was sunburned or about to have an anuerysm.

what Flesh style do you use? do you do an undercoating as shown in the Hemble tutorial? hmmm, maybe I should start a new thread....

BTW - face painting is nerve racking.... I don't think I'll ever get the eyes done right.
Henchmen4Hire -
Tuesday, December 5, 2006
Post some pictures of your painting, sometimes we can tell whats wrong by looking at the results.
Buzzy Fret -
Tuesday, December 5, 2006
yes apparently I don't know what I'm doing... luckily the thinner bath and scrubbing got it off. need to do some sanding on it anyway - there are some rough spots on it from the original factory paint job.

basically it's the head from a McFarlane Danger Girls Abbey (black haired one) that I'm thinking of using to replace the ML Black Widow's head which looks terrible. unfortunately the DG head has this jaundice look to it.

I think I'll do some more practicing on other things first before I screw it up permanently.
Henchmen4Hire -
Tuesday, December 5, 2006
Hah, think of Citadel as ink, you just need a little drop of it to cover a large area. You paint an entire figure with like 7-8 drops if you know what you're doing.
Buzzy Fret -
Tuesday, December 5, 2006
well I found a way to screw up with Citadel... my own ineptitude. Grrrrrrr.... have screwed up a good head by applying too much paint to the face, plus dwarf flesh made it look like they were sunburned. the real b!t(h of it is I had done a pretty good job on the hair!

any suggestions on how to clean off a bunged up paint job where you've glopped on too much paint? I currently have it soaking in acrylic thinner and will be taking a toothbrush to it with soap and hot water.
Buzzy Fret -
Saturday, December 2, 2006
can anybody here suggest some sealants to minimize the chipping?
Henchmen4Hire -
Friday, December 1, 2006
Hah, Even if you take the figures apart, the paint is still going to chip at the joints no matter how hard you try so save yourself a lot of time and paint the figure as is. Citadel is awesome, that's what I used for this Jane custom and it's still sticking pretty well to the joints.
Buzzy Fret -
Friday, December 1, 2006
I'm going to give it a try but first I need to go out tomorrow and get some flat black as I have only gloss. gonna try this with the Citadel Gore Red.

do you guys normally paint figures assembled or do you boil and pop 'em? I would think taking them apart would allow you to really get in the joints.
Henchmen4Hire -
Friday, December 1, 2006
If you want to repaint your DareDevil a little darker then you have to paint him all black and dry-brush the red on top. Even if you get a bright shade of red, the black undercoat is going to darken the red by a few shades. On the contrary, if you paint him all white first and then dry-brush red then the red is going to be very bright.

-WASH HIM! Use soap and hot water with a toothbrush if you have to to get into the joints.

-Paint him entirely black. Cover up the parts you don't want to paint (like his mouth) with some tape so they don't get accidentally painted. Let the paint dry and add another coat if you want to (but don't have to).

-Get some normal red paint and a sort-of-wide brush. Get a little paint on the brush and brush on some paper a little to get most of the paint off. Even though it looks like the brush has no paint on it, it does! Start painting the figure and you'll see that only a little bit of paint goes on at a time, that's what you want. The trick is to get the red on the raised parts of the figure but not in the muscle grooves or any other place deeper than the figures normal surface. That means if a figure has a deep scar on his leg then the red paint SHOULDNT go into it, it should stay black, that creates the shading.

Try to brush opposite of how the grooves on the surface are lined up. That means if the muscles on a figure are vertical then brush horizontal, if the muscles are horizontal, brush vertical.
ratboy -
Friday, December 1, 2006
Dry-brushing is just that, you take your brush and whip off the excess onto a paper towel or something, then when you paint you hit the raised areas of the figure, like folds of the clothes and high spots on the face( bridge of the nose, cheeks) things like that
Buzzy Fret -
Friday, December 1, 2006
this thread prompts me to ask - what are the pros and cons of painting over a solid base color like Doc did with this figure vs doing a wash?

plus what do you mean by "dry-brush"?

geez I know so little about this stuff but y'all are defintely giving me a good schooling! I really appreciate the helpful info.

by the way Doc - the paint job looks great! I may try this on a repaint of the ML Face Off Daredevil because the bright red they made him looks awful... plus his gloves and boots don't match it. it'll be an easy way for me to start getting into painting.
Gee_jays_Customs -
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
yep doc, it looks fine! ^_^

~Gj
VariablePenguin -
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Looks great! It was just your shady pictures that threw us off
ToymakerB -
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Look really good, I would actually add some black to some red to darken a bit and dry brush between the legs inner thighs, under arms...You know where shodows would be...just be subtle about it...Like YOU could be subtle...lol..Look Great so far though...good Job Grasshoper.
Henchmen4Hire -
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Here's a less-dark picture of her so you can see the actual color of the red. I don't know about the highlights, if I do that then it won't have the comic-book feel to it, it would be too realistic, but I do think the red should be a little brighter.
Gee_jays_Customs -
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
yea doc dats what I meant when I said about the highlights. Like on the raised folds of the jacket, dry brush some brighter/ lighter red, not pink tho...lol

~Gj
Henchmen4Hire -
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Okay, so it's Black base figure > Dry-brush suit color > Dry-brush lighter suit color? Does that work for all shading jobs? I was going to paint her all white instead of black first but then I'd need a wash. The red I used is standard red (Blood Red).
VariablePenguin -
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
take some red out of the bottle an mix in a tiny bit of white. dry brush it on the raised areas to highlight it some.
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