So what's the best stuff to use?
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So what's the best stuff to use?

Posted in Custom Workstation

I'd love to get sculpting some figures, but what should I use? What's the best value for money? What's the cheapest, if I just want to practice, and what's the toughest? What's the best to use for Claymation-type figures? Sculpey maybe, is there a way to stop it from getting too hard? Where's the cheapest place to get this stuff(keep in mind I'm in UK). What are the best paints to use? I can never find a good metallic red, they all come out dark pink/"grey red" or not very metallic at all.

Where do I get joints from? Is there somewhere I can buy a bunch of revoltech joints? Are joints hard to make in of themselves? What's the best way of making them?

I hear apoxie is almost like liquid(similiar to mercury, I'm guessing), so I'll probably be avoiding that.

Posted by Kittie Rose
on Tuesday, July 10, 2007
User Comments
Kyle Robinson -
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
HA! grey monk nailed it...lol.. I started to read this topic and I was like "dammit man, the adheasive is Apoxy not Apoxie" and if Im correct, I think Aves actually has rights to the name Apoxie so its a brand not a substance like Apoxy....

It actually Chemicle dries, its not heat or even air that cure it... once mixed, the sculpt will cure ina Jar (and from what I hear it will even cure under water)

and it dosent shrink like air dry (water based) sculpt/clay... Thats where you get cracking, in the shrinking process, not with apoxie (or fixit)


and Jin is right.... it last and last... Look at how many customs I have made (and I have been using aves since my early stuff **thanks to Jin **)
And guess how many I pound kits I have had to order EVER??? ONLY 3 (and one is still un opened)


(and thanks Jin for turning me on to the old aves stock sale, I don't think I would ever want to use fresh stuff again, I love how it is when its old)
Jin Saotome -
Monday, July 30, 2007
Eek, if you're looking to miliput for thin or bendable items, steer clear! It's really brittle after it cures and everything I use to use it for eventually chipped or broke.

Kneadite is the yellow+blue stuff that's somewhat flexible after it's cured. I use to use that for ears, fingers, tails, etc, because it took a lot to break it. Some people also figured out how to mix stuff with it to make it really flexible. Somewhere on the Fwooshnet is a topic about that.

Apoxie sculpt is generally good for everything. It's really inexpensive for the amount you get. When it says 1 pound, you really get two because each container of the A and B is 1 pound! That two lbs must of lasted me two years when I was first experimenting with it. Super hard too and you'd be more likely to stab yourself with a small piece than have it break.
Kittie Rose -
Monday, July 30, 2007
I'm thinking of going with Milliput as it's softer and cheaper for me to order. I know it's not amazing like Apoxie, but I need something a little softer, maybe. Is there any trick for softening it further so it can be bendy?
fert666 -
Monday, July 16, 2007
Of course shoe goo is kind a soft when it dried out, but it's difficult to work with it, because it is very runny at first...I tried a little for making a part of a mask...turned out well...have a look at the shoe goo article
Kittie Rose -
Thursday, July 12, 2007
Is there anything I can use to make softer plastics? these would be easier as they wouldn't break easily, especially in the case of fingers etc. I'm actually not that fond of hard plastics.

But I'd also need slightly soft(as in bends before breaking) and very soft(as in capes and clothes etc.).
greymonk -
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
what Doc Said. I use sculpy if I am making a stand alone item. for example, if I am making an arm or a head or something, I use Sculpy because it doesn't stick to everything it touches. If I am adding to a figure, or building something up, I use APOXIE because it does stick to everything and I don't then have to boil the figure or (shudders) bake it.

Weapons and such, I use sculpy. clothing folds and tucks, Apoxie. and so on et. nauseum.
Henchmen4Hire -
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Sculpey is good for everything, just have to get it to cure properly :P
Punstarr -
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
For practice, Sculpey is good.
Kittie Rose -
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
I like the sound of Milliput - anyone know anything about it?

Any good modeling clay/putty to use for practice, too? Like, not for action figures, just clay statues...
Punstarr -
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Ahhhh good to know. When I mentioned apoxie to my stepdad and he started talking about glue, he probably thought I said epoxie.
greymonk -
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Here's the breakdown:

EPOXY is a two part liquid resonous glue, usually clear and great for making wet looking blood and body fluids with.

APOXIE is the brand name given by Aves Studio to it's flagship product line of Clays, Sculpt and Fixit.

This has been a public service announcement from your friendly neighborhood Greymonk.
Punstarr -
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Just be careful you don't pick up apoxie glue by mistake.
Henchmen4Hire -
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Yup, lots of different stuff with the name Apoxie on it. Apoxie Sculpt and Fix-It Sculpt are what most people use for durable customs. Sculpey is also good but you really have to be careful you don't melt the figure when curing it in an oven.
Kittie Rose -
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
So it's the apoxie resin that's the liquidy stuff I hear about?

I'll try Apoxie Sculpt then, see how much it is.
sandlvlan -
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
apoxie sculpt is a putty, which feels a lot like sculpy when you work with it, but air dries and doesn't end up all chalky
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