Liquid Sander and Citadel Paint Question
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Liquid Sander and Citadel Paint Question

Posted in Custom Workstation

If you don't care to read the situation, I'll jump to my questions here:

1. Can I use liquid sander on a figure? It may help strip the gloss and oils from places I can't typically get to with sand paper.
Here's the link to what I'm referring to:

2. Citadel paint seems to be the buzz for figure painting. But its SUPER expensive. Is it really worth the investment (I'm about to purchase a case)? What makes it so much better than standard acrylic craft paint for 50cent a bottle? I'd hate to invest and get the same results (if you read my story below).

THANKS!

I just tried my first official custom. It went great at first but ended disastrous (paint wise).

I turned Black Widow into Poison Ivy.

I washed the figure with dish detergent and toothbrush to degrease and cut oils from the figure.
Once dry, I sanded (ultra fine sand paper) the figure (from what I could tell was well sanded).
I added some sculpture with some Epoxy putty (worked great).
Once all was dry, I then primed with plastic bonding primer spray paint.
I lightly sanded the primer.
I then painted with standard Acrylic craft paint.
Once dry, I clear coated with plastic bonding clear coat spray.

It looked pretty GOOD!!! I was impressed and excited... ready to customize more.

The next morning after things had time to dry, I gave to my son his new 3.75" articulate Poison Ivy to play with and in 30min tops, paint was scratching off easily, and all the joint paint was completely rubbed off.

An epic FAIL.

I put so much time into prepping. Not sure what I did wrong unless I didn't sand it good enough or if the paint was at fault. Thus, my 2 questions at the top.

Posted by Trustfulguy9100
on Monday, October 6, 2014
User Comments
Trustfulguy9100 -
Monday, October 13, 2014
You guys are awesome. Thanks.
triggerrick -
Wednesday, October 8, 2014
Elmers is glue, and mod podge is a matte finish sealant, my apologies I should have been more specific, mod podge looks and has the consistency of elmers glue, sorry bout the confusion, and when you use the rubbing alcohol you put it in a squirt bottle and spray it all over and scrub with a firm toothbrush, any other questions don't be to shy to ask
Trustfulguy9100 -
Wednesday, October 8, 2014
Thanks guys.

Maybe I'll try some of these tricks out. I did not boil or soak in alcohol. Cheap things to try. My bro has an airbrush I can borrow. Just have to find the right paints now. I never would've thought Mod Podge would work like that. Interesting. Is there a difference in Mod Podge and Elmer's? I've always wondered.
Truwe 316 -
Monday, October 6, 2014
From someone that has sold a lot of customs, you get what you pay for with paint. Sure Apple Barrel is nice but it really doesn't hold up around jointed areas and are not as durable.
triggerrick -
Monday, October 6, 2014
What kind of paint did you use? What manufacturer? Did you dilute the paint and with what? Here's what I do and use:
1. I place the figure in boiling water longer than most do, that helps with removing mold release and oils.
2. I saturate the figure with 90% rubbing alcohol and scrub it really well with a toothbrush just to be sure I remove all mold release and oils, it also dries in seconds as opposed to soap and water which takes a long time.
3. I make all necessary sanding and dremmel steps to avoid paint rub.
4. I never prime, some may swear by primer but I never saw the need for it.
5. Then I paint, I use either model master acrylic or tamiya acrylic paint, I paint using an airbrush, I strongly suggest you buy and use an airbrush, you can get a whole set up at hobby lobby using the 40% off weekly online coupon and buy the Iwatta eclipse and a compressor on two separate purchases cuz the coupon is only good for one item, and it'll only run you around $150-$200
6. Before I Paint I dilute tamiya paint with tamiya lacquer thinner 1 part thinner to 4 parts paint, using this method will allow the paint to dry faster due to the thinner and airbrush in a matter of minutes rather than brushing on paint, it also dries on like a hard shell and is really tough, or I use model Masters acrylic and thin it with model Masters universal acrylic thinner 1 part thinner to 4 parts paint aswell, if you use gloss on either types of paint it will be very shiny, but sometimes some colors only come in gloss and I use them anyways, to avoid this see step seven.
7. After all parts are painted and dried I spray krylon matte finish to seal it and remove glossy finish to the parts, then I paint all fine details with a fine brush and seal it again. I make sure before I reassemble the figure I allow paint to dry over night or 24 hrs just to be sure, very important, nothing is worse than fingerprint indentations on parts that weren't properly dried.
8. Reassemble the figure using a heat gun on lowest setting to avoid melting.
9. Once I reassemble the figure and it's complete, I brush mod podge matte finish all over the figure and then allow it to dry over night, I use a semi stiff brush because mod podge is rather thick and looks like elmers glue, use light coats and dry brush it on, at first its gonna look kinda thick and cakey, don't panic it will dry clear with a matte finish.
10. Place figure on shelf for display, give it as a gift, or sell it for a lot of money lol. You may get realmers here who disagree with my techniques and some who agree with it, everybody has their own methods, in the long run its all about a lot of trial and error, A lot! But doing customs has the same principles as anything else in life, you get what you pay for, if you want a cruddy custom, you buy the cheap paint and stuff, I'd you want a great custom you pay that extra money, in the long run its well worth it, Trust Me.
triggerrick -
Monday, October 6, 2014
What kind of paint did you use? What manufacturer? Did you dilute the paint and with what? Here's what I do and use:
1. I place the figure in boiling water longer than most do, that helps with removing mold release and oils.
2. I saturate the figure with 90% rubbing alcohol and scrub it really well with a toothbrush just to be sure I remove all mold release and oils, it also dries in seconds as opposed to soap and water which takes a long time.
3. I make all necessary sanding and dremmel steps to avoid paint rub.
4. I never prime, some may swear by primer but I never saw the need for it.
5. Then I paint, I use either model master acrylic or tamiya acrylic paint, I paint using an airbrush, I strongly suggest you buy and use an airbrush, you can get a whole set up at hobby lobby using the 40% off weekly online coupon and buy the Iwatta eclipse and a compressor on two separate purchases cuz the coupon is only good for one item, and it'll only run you around $150-$200
6. Before I Paint I dilute tamiya paint with tamiya lacquer thinner 1 part thinner to 4 parts paint, using this method will allow the paint to dry faster due to the thinner and airbrush in a matter of minutes rather than brushing on paint, it also dries on like a hard shell and is really tough, or I use model Masters acrylic and thin it with model Masters universal acrylic thinner 1 part thinner to 4 parts paint aswell, if you use gloss on either types of paint it will be very shiny, but sometimes some colors only come in gloss and I use them anyways, to avoid this see step seven.
7. After all parts are painted and dried I spray krylon matte finish to seal it and remove glossy finish to the parts, then I paint all fine details with a fine brush and seal it again. I make sure before I reassemble the figure I allow paint to dry over night or 24 hrs just to be sure, very important, nothing is worse than fingerprint indentations on parts that weren't properly dried.
8. Reassemble the figure using a heat gun on lowest setting to avoid melting.
9. Once I reassemble the figure and it's complete, I brush mod podge matte finish all over the figure and then allow it to dry over night, I use a semi stiff brush because mod podge is rather thick and looks like elmers glue, use light coats and dry brush it on, at first its gonna look kinda thick and cakey, don't panic it will dry clear with a matte finish.
10. Place figure on shelf for display, give it as a gift, or sell it for a lot of money lol. You may get realmers here who disagree with my techniques and some who agree with it, everybody has their own methods, in the long run its all about a lot of trial and error, A lot! But doing customs has the same principles as anything else in life, you get what you pay for, if you want a cruddy custom, you buy the cheap paint and stuff, I'd you want a great custom you pay that extra money, in the long run its well worth it, Trust Me.
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