Displaying the latest comments posted by Henchmen4Hire.
Wednesday, October 10, 2018
Edit: I'm tired of typing
Anyone have pics or first hand experience with Simple Green?
Wednesday, October 3, 2018
Hot glue would be a good solution, assuming you can do it neatly.
You can keep using superglue until the area you're gluing becomes so saturated/stiff that it finally sticks to the plastic. I've been doing that (ModPodge/superglue) with the cloth skirts on Clonetroopers, but I'm definitely looking for a better solution.
That's...actually pretty sick, great way to combine the elements
It's not my fault Snow Troopers secretly want to be ballerinas lol
Maybe the old Toy Biz Kitty Pride, the head was somewhere between 6 and 5 inch scale, should look fine on the smaller female ML body
Tuesday, October 2, 2018
Thanks peeps, it's on ebilbay now if you want a shot at it. I'll be happy if it sells, but I'll be just as happy keeping it haha
Monday, October 1, 2018
Yep, you could also buy from their website, but sadly they're never in stock online
The bottoms are also removable
It was at the request of the customer. It also makes painting easier so I'm a fan of it.
Yeah, it's a bunch of work. You can either buy expensive equipment to make the process go quick, or use cheap materials and have it take forever
Monday, September 24, 2018
Maybe clear plastic easter eggs
Friday, September 21, 2018
I definitely don't see figures as "valuable" since I started customizing, at least not when they're straight from the factory. I'm not comfortable spending over $10 for a figure because I'm just gonna hack it apart and repaint it. Would you pay retail price for a bike or a shirt if you were just gonna "wreck" it?
I'm sure complaining about the cost of things is something artists have always done, the problem comes when there's no cheaper alternative and they move on to other artforms, killing the previous artform. Although, in true artistic vision, having something die to give birth to something else isn't a "problem", it's just part of the artistic process.
The only reason I can customize now is because I take commissions, so the customers pay for parts. If I didn't have any customers p ...
Thanks bub, wish I could keep these but they were commissions
Thursday, September 20, 2018
Great mix of colors and subtle weathering.
I was hoping to make variants of these figs too, but damn I can't swing $20 a pop just to repaint them lol
Saturday, September 15, 2018
Lol awesome, looking forward to that army
Do them! We're sorely lacking masked wrestlers in the action figure world
Honestly I'm starting not to GAF about this stuff again
I've been making wrestlers and clonetroopers though, which has been a much needed change of pace
I'm not posting here anymore because apparently comments disappear if you post past a certain amount. Any WIPs and stuff are all going on my Art Station gallery from now on https://henchmen4hire.artstation.com/
Thanks, though I've been getting them from ebay for $12 to $15. It's way more convenient than having to cast stuff and buy all the equipment (and suffer all the errors) associated with that.
Sunday, August 12, 2018
Just paste the direct link to the image.[Picture]
If you don't want to copy paste every link, just post a link to the gallery where all the pics are.
Friday, August 10, 2018
Have you ever used that stuff to weaken the glue used inside the figure, on the pegs? Torso cracking is one of the most frustrating things we do, but if we can dunk the figure in mineral spirits or something to dissolve the glue, we could crack open torsos easily.
For sure, there was a guy who was enlarging/shrinking for like $30 a head, but it looks like he's either sick or scamming people because he's not fulfilling orders or answering emails.
Also, I don't think this 3D service would put normal casters out of business, because once you get past the initial expense of learning to make good casts/molds, it can be a faster/more convenient way to duplicate heads than waiting for a 3D printer and dealing with all that resin clean up every time. Plus, if the machine breaks...we're screwed.
Honestly, the biggest hurdle I've faced trying to get heads enlarged/shrunken is just trying to get in contact with the people who do it. Maybe my emails go straight to junk mail, or there are a bunch of flakes in this hobby lol. ...
Hell yeah the golems are back
Also, let me know if thats your accidental account so I can....delete it
Wednesday, August 8, 2018
It sold a while ago, sorry
It sold a while ago, sorry bub
Saturday, August 4, 2018
Looks like a bootleg Vengeance from Ghost Rider
Thanks for the interest, please remember to ask this on all the places you visit. We're looking at maybe $1500 to $2500 for a scanner, and resin for the printer is expensive, so we need to be sure he can at least sell enough product to break even.
Photogrammetry seems nice, but all my attempts at it have yielded a crappy mesh quality.
Depending on workload and complications, I think he could scan a head in an hour or two, then some time to clean up the mesh to make it suitable for printing. In total, it might take maybe a few days between getting an item scanned and shipping out the print.
There will have to be a charge to scan stuff because it takes time to scan and do post-process work. He would have to manually clean up the scan to get a printable model because nothing magically works right away, but I think he can charge something much more reasonable than the $125+ per item I was quoted by local 3D scanning shops.
I think scanning real life shoes or hats wouldn't be a problem, also maybe scanning figure torsos to downscale NECA figures or something. Maybe scan armor pieces or even Sideshow statue torsos to downscale them.
More practically, I think people will want to scale down key parts, like Furiosa's head/arm/Immortan Joe symbol, large scale weapons/accessories, etc.
Wednesday, August 1, 2018
Try electrical tape. Fold the strip in thirds so there aren't any sticky edges exposed.
It helps to look up free patterns for clothes, then resize them as needed. Recently I had to make a big cloak and did it this way.
Sometimes you can even simplify the process since you can glue instead of sew, you don't have to hem everything, etc.
For example, trenchcoats are usually two halves stitched together, with the lower halves stitched on too, but I'm sure you can make the trenchcoat with one piece of fabric. You'll just have to measure for the arm holes, cut it out and slip it on. ...
Monday, July 30, 2018
Length and width refers to their foot size? If so, I'm happy to say all those feet fit neatly on the plate.
Thanks, that's crazy how the peg hole diameters are so inconsistent. The peg I designed works with hole sizes between roughly 2.9mm and 4mm, I think another, thinner peg needs to be made for the 2mm to 3mm holes. I think slotted pegs might be too brittle at that diameter though, only testing will tell for sure.
To contradict what anti said lol-
Put a bead of superglue on the hand's peg or shaft, let it harden completely. Test the fit, add another bead if needed, repeat until happy with the fit. Usually only takes a few minutes for the superglue to harden, but you can speed it up with accelerant.
I don't like hot glue, but it works as long as you use a little vaseline to reduce friction/stickiness once it's cool.
Saturday, July 28, 2018
Updated the first post. I made a prototype and tested it with some figures.
I'm a genius, give me lots of money. Please? lol
Friday, July 27, 2018
If they were injection molded, maybe those prices could work. But since they're all being 3D printed, the cost of one plate and peg is roughly $1. (and the guy printing them still has to make a profit somehow...)
Customer pays the shipping so I'm not worried about that, although I guess it would cut down on the cost of packaging.
Yeah, I was considering that, but I think simply making the plates wide enough would provide enough stability for carrying things with outstretched arms, etc. These aren't really meant to be used as flight stands, have to work on a separate plate for that.
If I make the plates interlock somehow, that would be a neat way of letting people make as big a plate as they need...
There could also be some molded tabs in the hollow underside though, where people can wedge in some round magnets or something. I think hot glue would work just as well though lol
Lol, it sounds like a Robocop villain or something, cool.
This system appeals to collectors who don't have the time to (or don't want to) jury-rig solutions.
But that gives me an idea. If I leave the underside of the plate hollow, there should be enough space so people can use that wire idea and loop it through the holes, possibly creating flight stands. In certain configurations, at least it gives the figures a stiff spine to rest against.
I would disassemble the figure first, then scan the parts individually, it might save you a lot of time by not having to reconstruct joint areas
This vid shows the limitations of consumer-level 3d scanning (they use that scanner, skip ahead to like 12min since they're long-winded) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZXlwxAe9co
By the way, anyone have suggestions for what to name this plate/peg system?
I talked to someone on Etsy who 3D prints stuff, he said it might be around $1 for a plate with some pegs, so maybe $2 for a pair of plates and pegs. That's actually really reasonable considering the prep and tinkering that goes into getting optimal prints.
Please, please post measurements of your figures' feet, we gotta figure out the dimensions for the plates.
The prototypes could be 3D printed in resin for testing, but I think they would be too expensive to sell if they were all 3D printed. Printing with filament may be cheaper, but they would look ugly and the pegs wouldn't be uniform.
I'm going to make some prototype plates with styrene to get an idea of what shape and size they need to be to provide the most stability in the most situations. I REALLY need people to measure their figures' feet and foot holes and post the data so I can add it up there. That will help me get a ballpark for the dimensions of these things.
Thursday, July 26, 2018
I overhauled this post so it's much easier to read.
Apparently there are different resins with different properties, so you'll have to investigate which one works. It has to be "405nm photosensitive resin" though to work with this Photon printer.
Looks like there's a big Facebook community around 3D printing where you can get help with specifics.
Wednesday, July 25, 2018
I did some research and found that within the last year resin printers (SLA/DLP) have finally become affordable. I think this resin printer is probably the best you can get right now, the prints are mostly flawless and it's only about $500.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YrUQOYLoK0
It's a good review of the Photon printer, many different prints and shows exactly what expect from a resin printer. ...
Tuesday, July 24, 2018
I've been asking around about how much it costs to scan a head, and the best quote I've gotten so far is almost $800 to scan 10 heads. You might as well just buy the scanner!
Any chance of us getting an eye painting tutorial? That alone would help step up everyone's game significantly
Monday, July 23, 2018
Yeah, I left some of the masking tape exposed for the pic to remind everyone that I'm only a man...only a man...only a man....rofl
Sunday, July 22, 2018
Absolutely, there are free models out there you can download and modify in Maya, 3DSMax, Blender, ZBrush etc., then export to a program that makes them suitable for printing. The problem is that you won't be able to make any unique stuff unless you know how to use those programs, and have the skill to make things look good. For example, there's no free Red Sonja head sculpt out there, you'll have to use a generic head and resculpt the head and hair to make it look right.
On a more positive note, there are programs that let you take multiple photographs of an object and it will automatically create a 3D model of the object (you just have to do minor cleanup if needed). 3DF Zephyr is one of them: https://www.3dflow.net/3df-zephyr-free/
I'm glad you have someone to teach you this stuff firs ...
Saturday, July 21, 2018
Yeah, all elbow and knee pads are removable separate pieces. The tassles, skirt, necklace, and arm bands on Tatanka are also removable. Glasses on Macho Man are removable.
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