Displaying the latest comments posted by Henchmen4Hire.
Sunday, August 12, 2018
Just paste the direct link to the image.[Picture]
If you don't want to copy paste every link, just post a link to the gallery where all the pics are.
Friday, August 10, 2018
Have you ever used that stuff to weaken the glue used inside the figure, on the pegs? Torso cracking is one of the most frustrating things we do, but if we can dunk the figure in mineral spirits or something to dissolve the glue, we could crack open torsos easily.
For sure, there was a guy who was enlarging/shrinking for like $30 a head, but it looks like he's either sick or scamming people because he's not fulfilling orders or answering emails.
Also, I don't think this 3D service would put normal casters out of business, because once you get past the initial expense of learning to make good casts/molds, it can be a faster/more convenient way to duplicate heads than waiting for a 3D printer and dealing with all that resin clean up every time. Plus, if the machine breaks...we're screwed.
Honestly, the biggest hurdle I've faced trying to get heads enlarged/shrunken is just trying to get in contact with the people who do it. Maybe my emails go straight to junk mail, or there are a bunch of flakes in this hobby lol. ...
Hell yeah the golems are back
Also, let me know if thats your accidental account so I can....delete it
Wednesday, August 8, 2018
It sold a while ago, sorry
It sold a while ago, sorry bub
Saturday, August 4, 2018
Looks like a bootleg Vengeance from Ghost Rider
Thanks for the interest, please remember to ask this on all the places you visit. We're looking at maybe $1500 to $2500 for a scanner, and resin for the printer is expensive, so we need to be sure he can at least sell enough product to break even.
Photogrammetry seems nice, but all my attempts at it have yielded a crappy mesh quality.
Depending on workload and complications, I think he could scan a head in an hour or two, then some time to clean up the mesh to make it suitable for printing. In total, it might take maybe a few days between getting an item scanned and shipping out the print.
There will have to be a charge to scan stuff because it takes time to scan and do post-process work. He would have to manually clean up the scan to get a printable model because nothing magically works right away, but I think he can charge something much more reasonable than the $125+ per item I was quoted by local 3D scanning shops.
I think scanning real life shoes or hats wouldn't be a problem, also maybe scanning figure torsos to downscale NECA figures or something. Maybe scan armor pieces or even Sideshow statue torsos to downscale them.
More practically, I think people will want to scale down key parts, like Furiosa's head/arm/Immortan Joe symbol, large scale weapons/accessories, etc.
Wednesday, August 1, 2018
Try electrical tape. Fold the strip in thirds so there aren't any sticky edges exposed.
It helps to look up free patterns for clothes, then resize them as needed. Recently I had to make a big cloak and did it this way.
Sometimes you can even simplify the process since you can glue instead of sew, you don't have to hem everything, etc.
For example, trenchcoats are usually two halves stitched together, with the lower halves stitched on too, but I'm sure you can make the trenchcoat with one piece of fabric. You'll just have to measure for the arm holes, cut it out and slip it on. ...
Monday, July 30, 2018
Length and width refers to their foot size? If so, I'm happy to say all those feet fit neatly on the plate.
Thanks, that's crazy how the peg hole diameters are so inconsistent. The peg I designed works with hole sizes between roughly 2.9mm and 4mm, I think another, thinner peg needs to be made for the 2mm to 3mm holes. I think slotted pegs might be too brittle at that diameter though, only testing will tell for sure.
To contradict what anti said lol-
Put a bead of superglue on the hand's peg or shaft, let it harden completely. Test the fit, add another bead if needed, repeat until happy with the fit. Usually only takes a few minutes for the superglue to harden, but you can speed it up with accelerant.
I don't like hot glue, but it works as long as you use a little vaseline to reduce friction/stickiness once it's cool.
Saturday, July 28, 2018
Updated the first post. I made a prototype and tested it with some figures.
I'm a genius, give me lots of money. Please? lol
Friday, July 27, 2018
If they were injection molded, maybe those prices could work. But since they're all being 3D printed, the cost of one plate and peg is roughly $1. (and the guy printing them still has to make a profit somehow...)
Customer pays the shipping so I'm not worried about that, although I guess it would cut down on the cost of packaging.
Yeah, I was considering that, but I think simply making the plates wide enough would provide enough stability for carrying things with outstretched arms, etc. These aren't really meant to be used as flight stands, have to work on a separate plate for that.
If I make the plates interlock somehow, that would be a neat way of letting people make as big a plate as they need...
There could also be some molded tabs in the hollow underside though, where people can wedge in some round magnets or something. I think hot glue would work just as well though lol
Lol, it sounds like a Robocop villain or something, cool.
This system appeals to collectors who don't have the time to (or don't want to) jury-rig solutions.
But that gives me an idea. If I leave the underside of the plate hollow, there should be enough space so people can use that wire idea and loop it through the holes, possibly creating flight stands. In certain configurations, at least it gives the figures a stiff spine to rest against.
I would disassemble the figure first, then scan the parts individually, it might save you a lot of time by not having to reconstruct joint areas
This vid shows the limitations of consumer-level 3d scanning (they use that scanner, skip ahead to like 12min since they're long-winded) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZXlwxAe9co
By the way, anyone have suggestions for what to name this plate/peg system?
I talked to someone on Etsy who 3D prints stuff, he said it might be around $1 for a plate with some pegs, so maybe $2 for a pair of plates and pegs. That's actually really reasonable considering the prep and tinkering that goes into getting optimal prints.
Please, please post measurements of your figures' feet, we gotta figure out the dimensions for the plates.
The prototypes could be 3D printed in resin for testing, but I think they would be too expensive to sell if they were all 3D printed. Printing with filament may be cheaper, but they would look ugly and the pegs wouldn't be uniform.
I'm going to make some prototype plates with styrene to get an idea of what shape and size they need to be to provide the most stability in the most situations. I REALLY need people to measure their figures' feet and foot holes and post the data so I can add it up there. That will help me get a ballpark for the dimensions of these things.
Thursday, July 26, 2018
I overhauled this post so it's much easier to read.
Apparently there are different resins with different properties, so you'll have to investigate which one works. It has to be "405nm photosensitive resin" though to work with this Photon printer.
Looks like there's a big Facebook community around 3D printing where you can get help with specifics.
Wednesday, July 25, 2018
I did some research and found that within the last year resin printers (SLA/DLP) have finally become affordable. I think this resin printer is probably the best you can get right now, the prints are mostly flawless and it's only about $500.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YrUQOYLoK0
It's a good review of the Photon printer, many different prints and shows exactly what expect from a resin printer. ...
Tuesday, July 24, 2018
I've been asking around about how much it costs to scan a head, and the best quote I've gotten so far is almost $800 to scan 10 heads. You might as well just buy the scanner!
Any chance of us getting an eye painting tutorial? That alone would help step up everyone's game significantly
Monday, July 23, 2018
Yeah, I left some of the masking tape exposed for the pic to remind everyone that I'm only a man...only a man...only a man....rofl
Sunday, July 22, 2018
Absolutely, there are free models out there you can download and modify in Maya, 3DSMax, Blender, ZBrush etc., then export to a program that makes them suitable for printing. The problem is that you won't be able to make any unique stuff unless you know how to use those programs, and have the skill to make things look good. For example, there's no free Red Sonja head sculpt out there, you'll have to use a generic head and resculpt the head and hair to make it look right.
On a more positive note, there are programs that let you take multiple photographs of an object and it will automatically create a 3D model of the object (you just have to do minor cleanup if needed). 3DF Zephyr is one of them: https://www.3dflow.net/3df-zephyr-free/
I'm glad you have someone to teach you this stuff firs ...
Saturday, July 21, 2018
Yeah, all elbow and knee pads are removable separate pieces. The tassles, skirt, necklace, and arm bands on Tatanka are also removable. Glasses on Macho Man are removable.
Friday, July 20, 2018
Figures like Roman Reigns or Macho Man have the other type of muscular arms[Picture]
It's a good idea to go see the figs at a store, there are a few different calf and thigh pieces too, as well as more body types.
WWE John Cena or Tatanka upper bodies look like a good fit.[Picture] [Picture]
I have to say though, the current ML WonderMan has that body shape already, and it's 6.5 inches tall, I think it's spot on. ...
Yeah, look at WWE Elite figures, there are several body types to choose from and they're constantly either on sale or found cheap online (around 7 to $12).
If you have reference pics of what you want to make, I can maybe make a suggestion for what parts to use.
I found an old comment I made on a youtube video, where the guy gave an honest review of a popular 3D printer and caught a bunch of sh*t for it. This sums up my experience while researching 3D printers:
"The fact that you blow hundreds of dollars on a machine and are then supposed to blow even more money fixing factory and design defects should have everyone saying "Hey! What the f*ck is wrong with these 3D printer manufacturers? Get your sh*t together!", not have everyone come after the reviewer for giving an honest review.
Is the part where your machine is going to be junk unless you modify it part of the "charm" of the DIY hobby? Because if I spend $500 on a belt sander, and the f*cking thing keeps lacerating me with shredded belts, you'd better believe I'm not going to go on youtube ...
From the print samples I've seen, it's not worth getting a 3D printer unless it uses resin, and it will most likely cost $1000+. The printers that use plastic filaments are okay, but they always leave those annoying ridges on the surface that you have to manually fix somehow. The fixes are easy on large flat surfaces, but it's a pain to fix intricate stuff like heads, clothes, etc.
I would suggest reviews, but when I was doing research all I saw were a bunch of apologists for how young the technology still is. (Or maybe they just want you to buy the thing so they can keep getting a cut and free stuff from the manufacturer.)
You order a 3D printer and it doesn't work right out of the box. You have to monkey with it a while to calibrate it for the setting you're using it in (level it, get ...
Thursday, July 19, 2018
It's a character called The Ironclad from the game Slay the Spire. He's not very detailed in the game so fans tweak the design however they want.
lobo is in a bag somewhere, waiting for hair lol, purple chick is waiting for a new head
Needs cleanup, but sculpting is mostly done
Don't know who that is but post picsssss when you can
I think you should give the lips another coat of flesh so they're more clearly defined. Right now the beard makes the whole area look muddy, but if the lips are clear then it looks a lot more like stubble/beard.
The arms look fine to me, but if you want something slimmer maybe try female WWE arms, or Thundra
Electrical tape. Cut a strip that's 3 times as wide as you need, then fold in a third, and fold in the other third on top. This is so the edges look "finished" instead of just being a raw cut edge of tape that would collect debris.
If you want it textured, just use a textured tape.
It sold a while ago, I only got like 20 bucks for it lol
I need to make another one using modern figures, should be interesting to see this suit of hers with Marvel proportions, maybe on a Silk body
Wednesday, July 18, 2018
Yeah, probably from the first iron man movie figure
hope they don't mind, I recycled this figure I got a while ago because I can't be buying a bunch of fodder bodies heh
Thanks, they're all my WIPs
Glad they're helpful
You can start your own WIP topic if you want, and post as much detail about the process as you like.
I think I accidentally gave many customizers the bad habit of posting WIP as part of their submission to the Showcase haha, but I don't mind if it's just one pic.
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