Questions about paint brands...
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Questions about paint brands...

Posted in Custom Workstation

I've got about 20 WIP figures ready to be painted but I'm having a hard time finding the right paint to use. I bought a Testors Acryllic 9 bottle pack to start with, but nearly every application I made with the paint left a natural gloss that makes my figures look terrible. I need to find a paint that won't chip off from articulation (and without a thin layer of super glue) and leaves a dull surface when dried, because many factory figures I have have dull paints that reflect little light and I want my customs to look like that.

When I was younger, I just used Wal Mart brand Acryllic paints, which gave pretty good results when it came to dull surfaces, but I refuse to use them now because of how flaky the layers become when dried and how easily they chip off. I bring this up because I recently had a thought...if I were to mix that paint with a few drops of super glue and give a quick layer of paint, would it remain dry and look dull?

One more question...I'm working a figure that has a plastic torso, a rubber waistline, gloves, and boots that require the same color. Ideally, I'd like to find some sort of spray paint to use so I can paint all the pieces at the same time, but I have a feeling I won't find any spray paint that will stick to both the plastic and the rubber material. Does anyone know what I need to do to finish these parts? I'm also going for a dull look with the paint.

Posted by timone317
on Monday, May 30, 2011
User Comments
mega_star_andro -
Thursday, June 2, 2011
If you bought the big pack of testors acrylic they are NOT model master and won't produce the flat or no shine result, you have to use Testors Model Master Acryl to get the right look, I've also used some Citadel paints and they work great also, but you can find Model Master at most Hobby Lobby stores in the US, they are in the glass case next to the air brush paint supplies. I found Citadel/gamesworkshop paint @ a gaming store the next town over, they are worth the price my friend. As for painting rubbery material I suggest using a "wet sandable automotive primer" its a spray paint primer they use on car bodies and such, use some sand paper on the area first to make sure it sticks. then paint over it with the model master or GW paint, thats my 2 cents.
bobtheodd -
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Not necessarily, I'm just telling you what I do, I'm happy with my results. My steps are:
Wash figure,(sculpt and glue on parts-assembly) primer with Krylon fusion, paint, using my large selection of "cheapo" craft paints, then seal with 2-3 coats of Clear(matte,gloss or flat)spray paint. Works for me, but like I said I just do it for me, I have only ever sold one of my figures and traded a custom for a custom with a member here. Other then that they sit on a shelf or light posing for photos.

Thanks, I'm real happy with him.

As for your question, I don't think so. You'll just need to mix some yourself. If you find one that does, it more then likely will be a pricey service.
timone317 -
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Alright...so I guess that means I just need to try out another brand of paint before I try the spray. Very nice work on that Keldor, by the way...I remember when they made that exclusive as part of the revamped He-Man line.

Edit - One more thing that I keep forgetting to ask...I work with Photoshop a lot, and I was thinking of an easier method of getting the exact color of paint you need by using the eyedropper tool to get a sample of color and sending an image of that color to a company to have them mix that specific color and send it to you. Is this just wishful thinking or are there any companies out there that provide these services? I ask because I hate mixing and wasting paint when I get hues wrong.
bobtheodd -
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
They sell: Gloss, Matte, Satin and Flat.
Gloss: http://www.figurerealm.com/customfigure ... w&id=27736 - Shiny
Flat: http://www.figurerealm.com/customfigure ... w&id=25706 - No Shiny
timone317 -
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
I've used that before, and it gives the exact result I'm trying to avoid, where it looks shiny even when it's not under a light. Now I'm confused, are you saying the crytal clear acrylic is supposed to cancel out the shine on the Testors layer?
timone317 -
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
@ bobtheodd- I used to do that as well, but after a while, I started to worry about stupid stuff like passing my figures on to my kids, and I'd hate for them to get to the customs and have to watch all my hard work get cracked apart when they played with them. And I'd also like to step it up because I'm thinking about accepting commissions in the near future and I refuse to give an inferior product. But what do you mean with a flat spray paint? Like spray paint of the same color, or do you mean some sort of sealant?

@ pock63- It definitely does, thanks. I'll look into all those.

@ countpichula-I've done it before, coloring ball joints and sealing it with super glue, I just wanted to know if anyone has found a paint that can make that step unnecessary.
Automatauntaun -
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Valjeo are awesome from everything I have heard. I have yet to use them.
( for more info head over to les's site awesomepIntjob.com. Totally worth your time)
Personally I use citidale paints and wash's but I add winded and water to them according
To how I want the finished product to look and how lucid or think I need it to be.
Reaper colors are ok but...I have always had a love hate with them.
As for the no joint paint rub? No idea aside from sand everything so it dosnt rub.
Not much else will set that hard. The layer of crazy glue can work good
If you have a old crappy brush you don't mind sacrificing to the custome
Pantheon? Also more advanced but dyeing he parts. Not something I have done yet.
pock63 -
Monday, May 30, 2011
I use model masters (super sturdy great for base coats and only some of them are gloss), tamya (amazing vibrant colors great for detailing), and velajo (lots of good clear and metallic colors). I also use assorted craft paints for colors that other brands don't produce. I often use inks for shading and I have some sets of neon and glow in the dark paints for some details. Hope this helps.
bobtheodd -
Monday, May 30, 2011
I use cheapo craft paints, but that's me(then again I don't play or man-handle my customs, or sell them, just display). Use the Testors paint, then seal with a FLAT spray paint, that will get rid of the shine.
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