Help with painting crazy glue on joints to prevent joint rub
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Help with painting crazy glue on joints to prevent joint rub

Posted in Custom Workstation

I have been trying this and it is never sure fire so far.
I finally lost a ratty brush to this and before I pick another of my fall back brush's for this I wanted to know of any better techs. I have just been applying it as is.

I wanted to know if adding water or enamel thinner would work good? or anything.

My main issue is some times it works perfect and is clear. Other times it instantly clumps up ( my work area is pretty humid at times and seems to effect the crazy glue as some times it won't even make things join together)
and other time it turns that hazy, frosty white.
any help is greatly appreciated!

Posted by Automatauntaun
on Thursday, August 4, 2011
User Comments
leafman343 -
Saturday, January 21, 2012
I use the Krazy glue in the purple bottle with the "color change formula" and the brush, works just fine. Just be careful not to glue the joint solid.
Dr.Zom -
Saturday, January 21, 2012
I hate to bump an old topic, but I'm living with joint pain(t) like many and having many of the same issues with rub...

On the generic Super Glue--don't do it on the hardened resin sections found on most ML and DCU figures unless you want to repaint fully as it will cause discolouration. My daughter accidentally picked up my son's ML Series 1 Hulk by the head and tore it right off (must be some Galactus genes on my wife's side ) and that happened to his neck cover. Not sure about the soft regions.

Now for the pain... I have shaved/dremelled/sanded the appropriate areas and it's a crapshoot on some figures. All joints are equally scrubbed prior to painting to remove oils, and problem joints rescrubbed if the desired effects haven't been reached. As an example, on the custom Rulk I'm doing, three joints are just fine after employing this technique yet two persist as problems--the ankle joints and one knee joint. I use the "Instant Krazy Glue" in the red and green bottle. The same formula is now also available in a purple "clears once dry" formula, which ought to help us all! Additional thoughts?
Automatauntaun -
Thursday, September 1, 2011
Thanks my man!
In the stats it's almost identical but a green tube. I'll post a photo later.
I will try this out on some disgaurded fig refuse. It may also be my work areas temp and humidity? Till then!
blaynescott -
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
I don't have one in package anymore, but here's a shot of two + one's original plastic cylinder case.

I can't locate this specific version on their website: http://www.krazyglue.com/products/catalog.aspx?g=1 - perhaps it's packaging is only that way in Canada.
Either way, the type I use is referred to on the packaging as "Original" Krazy glue. Any of the fast acting formulas or slow acting (advertised as not bonding skin) have other additives that effect the finish of the glue. Since you're not using this stuff to bond 2 surfaces together (like you would with gel-type crazy glue), you need to pick one that has the best smooth surface when cured.

As with all customizing -- experiment: buy one or two versions locally, test them on some junk plastic (one painted, and one that's not painted) and see how the glue reacts. If it creates a glossy hard finish without any surface stippling/ice shape formation, you've found something you can use. Otherwise, toss the offending glue in a drawer to use around the house, and try again.

Best of luck,
-Blayne
Automatauntaun -
Monday, August 29, 2011
Could you post a photo as sometimes things are packaged different in differed places. Again thanks both for your sage advice.
blaynescott -
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Glad to help. When you try new liquid type superglues (for the purposes of joint/surface protection, instead of trying to bond stuff together) - always apply some of it in different thicknesses to a scrap piece of plastic - prefereably one that's already painted with your usual brand of paint.

Some superglues (for example, that Orange-Label version of the "Instant Krazy Glue" are super-fast drying, or have a retardant in them (meant to give time to clean it off grandpa's fingers when he repairs stuff in the Kitchen) -- those kind usually dry with little bumpy, uneven surfaces - sometimes with tiny points. So ugly. The red lablel kind (sort of a bright red / silver label) is the only brand I've found that produces an even mirror-smooth surface. It sort of self-levels too if you push it around with a paperclip or a clean applicator nozzle.

It's also great for rebuilding an surface, then sanding + adding more Krazyglue + sanding to reconstruct plastic that's gone ragged, or a mistake in the sculpt that's a little too rough. It layers on top of it's self well when wet, and after it's cured. Just don't use on bendy-type plastics (or those oily/rubbery Hasbro ML type parts). That combined with a matte varnish is actually the basis for making my custom figures able to withstand heavy play or handling.

Cheers,
-Blayne
Automatauntaun -
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Thanks Blayne! As per usual super detailed know how. I did tape it off. My crazy glue applicator no matter how inclan it and take care of it is always oozing. My work area is not very temperature controlled.
I will be looking into all the info here.
Also thanks darth! I google searched the name that moment and have commenced a massive local search.
You guys rock!
Darththomas -
Thursday, August 4, 2011
This is the stuff and I just pick it up at the local supermarket

blaynescott -
Thursday, August 4, 2011
For sealing large (6" scale figure) areas, or joints, I prefer to use "Instant Krazy Glue" (red/silver label, not the orange/silver version - that one clumps). If you put a dot on the surface you're working on, then use the applicator's nozzle (as long as you keep it clean) to smooth/guide it around, it creates a wonderfuly smooth, protected surface. I add a small bit to a paperclip for applying in smaller areas. It's what I refer to as "liquid" type superglue, vs. the gel type

With Krazyglue, the surface gains a high glass-like gloss. If that's what I need, I'll leave it as-is. Otherwise, going over with one layer of Vallejo matte brush-on varnish looks amazing - and the surface is super durable.

I've yet to try locktight - once I get back to Canada, I'll be sure to raid my local Walmart for some.



Ah, frosting/ghosting from superglue gassing off? Try isolating the area with some artists masking tape (Tamiya makes a nice version that's paint-friendly). I either cover the area that I don't want frosted by the glue curing, or just isolate the area that's been glued - the tape will take the brunt of the gassing off. The rest can be wiped away with your finger or a moist paper towel - just be sure the surface is dry.
Automatauntaun -
Thursday, August 4, 2011
Thank you darth. Is that the commercial name? I will have to look for it or look it up. Cause my punished got f'd up do to the super glue turning his freshly painted black flack jacket white :/
Also pok thanks for the heads up!

P.S. I prefer lock tight already, sounds like theirs no reason
For crazy glue any more.
Darththomas -
Thursday, August 4, 2011
I've never used crazy glue so I'm not sure on that one but I use Loctite superglue Easy brush for shielding my joints, it comes with its own brush attached to the cap and I have never had any problems with it clouding, and it leaves a super tough coat, plus the added bonus of the brush.
pock63 -
Thursday, August 4, 2011
In my experience it only gets cloudy if some water gets in the glue. I hope this helps.
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