How to avoid paint rub on DCUC hip joints?

...oh,I realised a little late that the comment of darththomas already answered my question
and thanks for this good tips,dr nightmare

If the factory paint is really thick at the hip hinge, creating too much friction, remove it all with acetone/sandpaper.

Then one or two light paint or marker coats, then dab it with super glue.

Since friction is usually the problem, sometimes adding a little bit of oil in the joint (after shielding with superglue or sealer) helps the parts slide instead of scrape each other.

Also, stretching out the joint helps, especially if it's way too tight. Run it under hot water so it's soft, pull on the joint so the parts separate 1 or 2 millimeters, then run it under cold water to keep that stretched position. It works on most joints, and especially well in places like the arm swivel where the upper arm wants to scrape the shoulder joint.

...hey there...I didn't tried for now,but I've got one of this figures as base for my daredevil and I think about drilling into the upper legs and crack them open...do someone may have experiences with that?

I usually use super glue, or some times a permanent marker will work on the joint just find a matching color. Don't tell anyone, but Michaels has every color of the rainbow and then some .

I'm far from the disassembly guru DT is, but this was an issue with the only DCUC base I used and here's how I got around it... I stripped the area with Acetone, sanded around the joints and then used several really light undercoats of high-quality paints. I did the same with topcoats and then sealed with ModPodge and Krazy Glue. I allowed many coats to cure overnight. My fig can do almost a full split with no rub-off.

I've only ever done this once and it wasn't easy, I had to take the whole thing apart, including the upper legs so I could sand all the pieces, paint then glue shield. After that I always try to use pieces that match the colour I want.