"How-To-Sculpt" tutorials based on 1/12th scale heads?
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"How-To-Sculpt" tutorials based on 1/12th scale heads?

Posted in Custom Workstation

Been looking for tutorials on how to sculpt 1/12th scale figure's heads/faces, and hands.

I DON'T MEAN ONE-SIXTH SCALE, I mean ONE-TWELFTH SCALE. Reason: 3d printer can't print enough detail on 1/12th scale heads.

These are what I found so far.

http://www.makingfairies.com/pages/down ... ne-courses


http://www.dollmakersdream.com/how-to-s ... ace-1.html

I can't find tutorials on how to sculpt 1/12th scale ACTION FIGURE's head/face, like how they make edgy faces, like monsters, superheroes, soldiers, etc. The list above is mostly based on fairy dolls, which are still quite helpful on how to sculpt beautiful looking female faces, but their male sculpts aren't to my liking.

SO, anybody know special tutorials on how to sculpt 1/12th scale male faces? That's including on how to sculpt hair, eyebrows, teeth, veins, etc.

Posted by STCreator
on Friday, February 27, 2015
User Comments
STCreator -
Wednesday, March 4, 2015
Hello, XtremisT!

Thanks for the response!

Aves apoxy putty is AWESOME for small sculpting detail, and making joints with it, but horrible for head sculpts. You're right on that part, it's the timing that sucks with Aves apoxy.

I'll have to look for Green Stuff. It sounds like a perfect putty for face sculpting.

Ball-tipped stylus sticks, and some toothpicks are the tools I used, but I still need a tool to make the face's "skin" smooth.

Is there any instructional book based on sculpting smaller detail from Games Workshop? I went to the Games Workshop store one time, and they told me they didn't have any instructional book.
Sunday, March 1, 2015
What makes sculpting hair, eyebrows, beards, veins etc easier for me is using more rigid sculpting apoxy.

I usually use milliput for muscles, straps/belts and other larger things. I'd say Aves apoxy is similar. The problem is that these get quite soft when you have to use water to smooth them out or stop tools sticking to it. It becomes difficult to sculpt fine details when it gets really soft, and can harden too much causing it to tear and hard to stick to the surface you're sculpting on. It is possible, but you need quick working time and to wait half an hour to an hour after mixing the 2 parts to get it to the correct consistency as it cures. By then you will have more or less about 30 minutes to work with before it gets more rubbery.

So instead I use green stuff from Games Workshop. More expensive, but very durable and not as brittle as the 2 brands I mentioned above.

It can still be smoothed out by wetting your tools and your finger, but gives you 2 hours working time, and is more rigid meaning it won't go soft with too much water. Perfect for things like hair.

The other important thing is what tools you use.

You can buy kits, from amazon search: clay sculpting tools. You could nab some from the dentist on the next visit. Or you could make your own.

The simplest thing is what I use. Cocktail sticks, dental sticks/tooth picks (with flat edges) and dental floss (for cutting lines in curved areas).

I don't need anything else at 1/12th scale sculpting.

Hope this helps!
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