Sigma 6 Customizing
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Sigma 6 Customizing

Posted in Custom Workstation

Hey Everyone! I am brand new to custom action figure making and I definately want and need any advice you guys are willing to give me! I went out and bought some Sigma 6 figures to start with because I really like the size and base figures that they have. Well, here are some of the questions I have...

1. Disassembly - When it comes to disassembling the figure, is there a tutorial on this? I've scoured the internet looking for tutorials but can only find ones for taking apart Marvel legends and DC Universe figures... I would really like to see how the joints and connector pieces are when it comes to the Sigma 6 figures. (I tried the heat and pop method on my snake eyes to try and remove his head, but the plastic connector stretched and snapped, I was able to fix it tho...)

2. Painting - What paint is best to use on these figures? Right now all the paint I have is Testors Enamel paints. I really can't afford to go out and buy a bunch of Acrylics to have on hand as of yet, but I was wondering if the enamels will be sufficient on this type of plastic? I also have Mod Podge that I can seal the finish with when I am done with painting and such.

3. Sculpting - I have a 1 lb. size of Apoxie Fixit Sculpt that I picked up because everywhere I read it appears to be the best stuff availible. I am wondering to what extent can you use the sculpt on the figure. I have never used the sculpt before so that all new to me as well. But I am wondering if when you shape the sculpt on the figure and it cures, will it be permanently adhered to the figure or is there a chance it could fall off, and if so how do you sculpt the proper way on these figures?

4. Tricks of the Trade - Are there any tricks or secrets that are involved when working with these figures? Does any one thing work better than another on these figures? Is there anything that I wouldn't even think of using that could help me customize these figures?

Thats pretty much what I would really like to know before I just dive into these projects, lol! But I would definately appreciate and advice given and answers to these questions!!! Sorry this post is so long!!! I am just so excited to get started and I know if I just rush into this I will mess everything up without having some advice from the masters first!!! Thanks Guys!!!

Posted by Wayne Holden
on Thursday, February 19, 2009
User Comments
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somebody1 -
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
I never thought of that on figures, I know it is a trick to repair minor scratches on model kit windshields.
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Dead Man -
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
If you spray the softer parts with Future floor wax and let it dry, you can spray the softer plastics. Removes minor scuffs, too.
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somebody1 -
Sunday, March 1, 2009
I hadn't thought of that. Word of advice. Use cheap primer from walmart on all parts of the figure before painting. IT took a while for it to dry on the custom I'm working on but the one I didn't prime is still tacky on the softer bodyparts.
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Wayne Holden -
Friday, February 27, 2009
Well a member on here gave me some advice and it worked beautifully! Boil water and dip the joints you are separating into the water and it softens the plastic almost right away! Its awesome!
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somebody1 -
Friday, February 27, 2009
You're gonna have a hard time putting the joints back together with any articulation. at least with most you can melt the pins a bit and push them in and out.
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Wayne Holden -
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Yeah, I saw that tutorial already but thats not what I am looking to do. I want to remove arms, legs, and heads, as well as all the parts on each. If that made sense, lol! Anyways, I wanted to see what kinda of joint anchors are connecting the arms, elbows, legs, knees, etc.
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somebody1 -
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Buzzy Fret did a good tutorial on splitting figures open in this section. The basic gist of it is you drill small holes (easy to fill) along the seem where the 2 halves meet and use a small hole punch to pop them open.
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Dead Man -
Sunday, February 22, 2009
I've done a number of Sigma 6 customs in the past and have several more in development right now. I'd be glad to try and answer any questions you have.
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Wayne Holden -
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Yes! and unfortunately I just learned that the hard way yesterday! I only lost about a marble size of sculpt but thats too much even for my liking. But this was my very first time using it and customizing so I didn't know... Its looking pretty good though I think! Thanks for all of your guys help so far!!!
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somebody1 -
Saturday, February 21, 2009
another thing about any sculpting material you have to mix. Do small batches. better to have to do more than one batch then wasting some.
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Wayne Holden -
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Hey thanks Gambit! I read those tutorials daily! Its favorited on my browser and I read them making sure I didn't miss anything and will definately read them again before my first attempt! I like the way they use figures to show what they are explaining, this is so cool! I can't believe I didn't get started in this sooner!
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Gambit4Hire -
Saturday, February 21, 2009
My #1 advice for you is to spend a day or two reviewing all the tutorials on this website. I did. They are excellent, and will really help you out a lot. The customizers on this website put them together in a fun way, so its like getting personal training!

1 lb of sculpt, you're going to be doing some serious sculpting. A little seems to go a long way for me. And a good tip for sculpting is don't try to do it all in one day. When I first started I was sculpting an entire figure and ruining what I just created by just holding the figure. Do half of a figure one day and let it dry and do the other half the next day.

For painting, If you work on two figures at the same time, one can be drying while the other is being worked on. You will still feel productive and have two finished at the same time.

Other tips: anything is game and your imagination is the limit to the possibilities. All kinds of stuff you have around the house can be used for your figures. Read the recipes on what other customizers have used and you will be amazed. Wire, push pins, rubberbands, LED lights, etc.

Welcome to customizing and have fun!
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somebody1 -
Friday, February 20, 2009
I do not want to talk about orange peel I hate that. its such a pain to sand down lol. it doesn't happen often to me anymore thankfully.
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Wayne Holden -
Friday, February 20, 2009
ah yes! the orange-peel! ugh... well, the clear coat I have is Mod Podge, it was recommended in one of the tutorials on this site. That is what Id be using
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somebody1 -
Friday, February 20, 2009
I never play with my figures lol. they all are going in a display case. I'd test teh sealant on some scrap piece of plastic to make sure it will cure and even then it might not work with certain paints. I know that some clear coats cause orange peeling on testors paints so its a good idea to always test it first.
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Wayne Holden -
Friday, February 20, 2009
Oh ok! Well that's interesting how all these paints are soooo different! Anyways, I plan to always seal my figures paint jobs no matter what paint that I use. So do you think I could get away with a walmart acryl and sealing it? Any custom figure I make will msot likely see some action, so I want to make sure it'll hold up, lol!
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DTM -
Friday, February 20, 2009
Well it depends on what acryls you get. Some are cheap but you might have to seal it to avoid chipping. Testors hold up pretty well from my experience, but I don't know about the rest. Just water it down a bit so it won't clump up. Too bad testors doesn't exist in any form but enamel here.
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Wayne Holden -
Friday, February 20, 2009
Aw man! That sux but I am glad that you stopped me before I went ahead and painted! Does this mean I have to go out n buy those dang expensive acryls?
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somebody1 -
Friday, February 20, 2009
Yeah if the plastic is soft like sigma 6 figures it migh tnever fully cure. it works on tranformers pretty good though.
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DTM -
Friday, February 20, 2009
Form experience enamel doesn't really dry, depending on plastic. My wolverine still hasn't dried form my bad knowledge of using enamel.
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Wayne Holden -
Friday, February 20, 2009
oh ok, sweet! thanks! I will have to start this weekend!
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somebody1 -
Friday, February 20, 2009
I haven't tried anything but flat black and primer on them from spray cans but I imagine enamels would work, you'll just have to give it time to dry if it stays tacky to your touch.
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Wayne Holden -
Friday, February 20, 2009
Thanks guys!!! Wow, they are only $10 here! Do you guys think those little Testors model paint enamels will work for painting them? I will definately be looking forward to seeing your custom that involves a Sigma 6 figure!!! I hope you can get some pictures once you tearit apart so that I can see what I amn working with as well!!!
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somebody1 -
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Don't feel bad Doc. They're 17 bucks here if you can find them. I got lucky and traded for a box of them on here. They seem popular for customizing. I think its the size an weapons selection.
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Henchmen4Hire -
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Apoxie sculpt sticks to almost anything, even better if it has something to anchor on to like a rough surface, just scrub and wash your figures with soap before you do.

Never customized S6, can't afford the figures now :[
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somebody1 -
Thursday, February 19, 2009
I've never torn one apart. I will ahve to for a custom so I'll let you know. as for paints. I spray paint a lot and the paint didn't dry real well, its slightly sticky but I'm sure it will dry eventually. You might want to test on a figure you're not too worried about to see if a cheap can of primer will help. Even that takes a few days to dry. Sculpting shouldn't be too bad, I haven't tried just yet but I'm getting a huge box of them to experiment on. If you do I'd say go with Epoxy sculpt. Sculpty might not adhear to the plastic aswell. I'm going to sculpt adn then cast in resin if I can. Feel free to PM me if you want. LIke I said I have quite a few projects coming up using Sigma 6 figures.
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