Forumula P3 Paints & Bulldog Adhesion Promoter

Posted in Custom Workstation

When I research/test products I like to take my time especially when it comes to customizing products. If I'm going to recommend something I'm going to make sure it works and find out exactly what it works on. Each product has gone 2 months+ of being applied to make sure they're permanent. Here's two products that made the grade.


Product #1. Formula P3 Acrylic paints by PrivateerPress

At first glance these paints look like the 12 year old Citadel paints that Games Workshop makes complete with the tear-off plastic seal around the lid. But what you actually have is a nearly indestructible paint much like the Testors Model master Acryl series but in 'Game Workshop' type colors. So far I have tried their basic colors including all their metallics, red, black, white, brown, purple, yellow, and one of their blues. These paints stick to ABS (transformers) and PVC (Marvel legends) like pigment possessed. This UK based paint seems to like plastic. It even sticks pretty well to that unpaintable plastic if you sand it lightly first, at least better than what's out there.

The first tests you see on the back of Mudflap and the Hand Ninja here were durability tests, 2 coats of each. Fully cured I cannot even begin to scratch the surface of these with my fingernail where I certainly could with Games Workshop and even Testors Model master flats. Here it's like they've become part of the plastic after about 8 hours. The Formula P3 paints dry the same as any other acrylic, you can use a hairdryer to speed it up, they mix, dilute for washes, and drybrush on.

The one odd thing about them is that while they thin down with water or alcohol, they truly don't get 'thinner'. When applied the paint is still looks like a thick coat and can contain bubbles, tho they are easily blown across and popped. However once it dries the paint 'shrinks down' on to the sculpt and reveals the detail. So watch out when adding water to the paints. It may seem like they're not thinning down in the jar but they are. So do a test patch somewhere. I usually thin the P3 down so they need 3 coats to cover.

The metallics surpass Testors Model Master's metallics in durability and sheen and are -almost- as pretty as Games Workshop's metallics. However the ease of drybrusing/superior durability makes up for the somewhat less-finely ground metal pieces. I'd rather have a bit of sparkle than the paint come off easily like GW's. Still I'm getting use to the look.

The verdict? Buy some P3 paints and try them out. Snag their Quick Silver and Morrow White to start. Those are some great basic colors. I haven't put these through an airbrush yet but since they refuse to thin/flow like normal paints I'd recommend them brush-on only. They do lay perfectly flat when thinned a bit tho and I have painted full Marvel Legends and Transformers with these, a perfect surface each time.




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Product #2. Kean-strip Bulldog Adhesion Promoter spray

[This product is designed for application by trained professionals using proper equipment under controlled conditions. This product is not intended for sale to the general public] <---Warning right on the can.

Funny, because I ordered it online without any questions from the website as to my credentials or business and had it shipped to my door. This is used by auto body shops. So let's get something out of the way first, Bulldog Adhesion Promoter is toxic. It smells toxic, has warning labels suggests you wear solvent-resistant gloves/organic vapors respirator, and makes your figure smell toxic for 12 hours. Awesome... But you know the saying, there's no great reward without risk. So if you're going to use this stuff use it outdoors and you'd better know what you're doing. Take precautions and follow the directions on the can TO THE LETTER.

Get past the danger and what this stuff does is make paint stick. Any kind of paint. To any kind of surface. I've tested it on ABS (transformers), PVC (marvel legends) styrene (Gundam) polycarbonate, even glass. It works on everything except soft rubber capes, it still made those sticky.

Then I tested various paints. First was Games Workshop which are notorious for not being very durable. Two coats and I couldn't get them to scratch off. Testors Model Master Acryl stuck, their enamels stuck, and so did the Forumula P3 paints (but we knew those would). Then I tried Folk Art and Apple Barrel, the kind you get from Walmart and Michaels. Hey, those stuck like glue! They didn't look very nice but properly thinned down I bet they would.

Regardless, any kind of paint I used stuck and wouldn't come off without a fight or a penny rubbed against it. Here's the catch tho, your figure stinks for 12 hours. Even if you paint the whole surface it'll stink and I had to set it outside. It seems within those 12 hours is the best time to apply your main coats. Paint still stuck a few days later but didn't seem to be as durable than the paint applied after one hour. Bulldog also leaves a satin finish on the figure, almost like a sealer. Paint sticks right to that satin finish and if left unpainted you can pick up paint marring from other sources. So make sure you paint over any part you sprayed this on. You can see the shine on the Marvel legends Falcon in the picture below. He has Games Workshop black on him and it won't come off.

The verdict? Wow, if only this stuff wasn't lethal. It makes your crappy paints stick to any plastic, really well to that unpaintable plastic too. I was able to use it on ML shoulder joints and Transformers ball joints with only a little wear (remember to lightly sand first). It gives you a great surface to work with and with professional results. But you had better follow those directions and don't breath this stuff!



And that's the end of the review.