Cracking SMC Venom

Cracking SMC Venom
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Custom WorkstationI'm using a Spider-man Classics Venom upper body for a custom and I need to paint the arms and body. I was wondering if anybody has ever opened the top part of the torso? I've got the lower torso cracked pretty easily but the upper torso is a lot thicker. Anyone know the easiest way to crack it?

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Here are a couple pics of the upper body balanced on the lower body to show what it will look like once I figure out how to connect it.
Any suggestions on how I can get this connected? Preferably without losing the waist articulation?
If you are working with staction figures, it is much easier to boil between cutting.
For Sota figures- the torsos are solid rubber or larger ones, a weird plastic. Boil and push the rod through using an awl or small screwdriver. The joints on a Sota figure are boil and pop.
Mattel Elite-drill and boil as in the first example.
To avoid tearing on boil and pop joints as the may get soft- get a string/dental floss. Wrap it over the shoulder so it is between that and the torso. Use that so that when you pull it comes straight out and avoids tearing the joint. You can also use a twisty tie and twist it around the inside of the joint and pull. Another method is to wrap the string around a screw driver clamp the figure down and twist the screwdriver until the slack is taken up and the joint will eventually be pulled out.
If you've already applied sculpt to a piece- it is best to use a blow dryer or dry heat to attempt to remove parts. Some smaller details may be loosened by boiling and the sculpt will eventually break off.
Just heat a nail and punch em. The razor technique.... it's unsafe. Almost
sliced my palm doing that back then....
the neck is VERY hard to crack open. Mine, split out the back...not a pretty sight either! I took a box blade and cut along the seam to cut the glue a bit at the neck and shoulder....this helps. If this doesn't help, resort to loosecollector 2nd tip!
- drill hole on one side
- pry with a small screwdriver
- if won't budge, drill on another side
- also try on the traps near the base of the neck
- the top is extremely well-glued
- but it will give you a good "crack" sound on one of those four places and it will open
Quick and sure way to open:
- drill slightly bigger hole on one side
- jam in a small firecracker
- light it up and it will surely open
- glue back all 100 small pieces