Best finish for acrylic paint?

Thanks to all of you I was able to find most of the recommended products here, so once I have time I'll try my best with your advices!
But for now I have to pass some exams ... anyway, you'll see the results when I post here my new customs

Many thanks <3

Primer helps to as it helps bond the paint to the figure. I use Vallejo paint mixed with their varnish makes for really durable paint. Because I am paranoid with paint chipping for customer pieces, I also use Army Painter's Anti-Shine Spray as it too is a varnish. Once those dry, good luck getting the paint off. This also helps when you airbrush, because after they dry, if I airbrush more layers, I can just use water to wipe off any mistakes without worrying about the paint I wanted to stay rubbing off.

Good luck!

I'll second the use of primer, after cleaning and sanding down the pieces I intend to paint I use the Dupli-Color automotive vinyl and fabric spray paint as a primer/base coat. Afterwards I apply thin, smooth, uniform coats of paint, and don't worry if the first, or even second and third, coat doesn't completely hide the primer/base coat, you don't want to get in a rush and apply the paint too thickly as then it WILL be easy to peel and flake. I've gotten in the habit of spraying at least every other coat with Tamiya Matte Acrylic Clear and that does seem to make a difference... I recently re-did the lower legs on my classic Valkyrie custom and peeled off the thread I used on the old pair, I've been using the blunt side of an Xacto knife blade to scrape down the super glue residue, using a good bit of pressure at times, and I have not yet had any of the paint come off, scratch or chip. Also when it comes to joints the best bet is to disassemble everything and sand/file it down, paint and seal it separately and then reassemble. It is a lot of work but definitely worth it for a durable paint job.

The first thing you need to accept to put your mind at ease is that acrylic paint will never be as durable as factory paint. Acylic paint forms a mechanical bond (grips surface) while factory paint forms a chemical bond (melts into plastic) or stain (dye).

All you can do is what J said, protect the paint with a tough topcoat. Try the stuff used to protect wood floors, I think thats varnish. Super Glue works great on joints, too much pressure may tear off the glue in one big layer though, so use your best judgement.

Once I paint my figs I live in fear of anything sharper than a sponge lol. When a custom is for customers, I go heavy on the glue usage, protecting anything that may remotely have a chance of rubbing off from movement.

I myself use layers of Matt Modge Podge in several layers to protect my paint from rub. I've also used matt varnish, which is an acrylic resin that dries to a hard finish and can be thinned and applied in layers. That should protect the paint from regular wear. For joint protection, I use clear superglue applied over the exposed areas of the joints. I especially like using Gorilla Glue, as it is really durable, though I don't know if they sell it where you live (I'm in the USA). You might also ask Dr.Nightmare his opinion, as he has some really cool figures under his belt.

Hope this helps.