Hmmm good idea! I did use a hairdryer with the focused attatchment but I always ended up heating too much of the figure. I'll go for the halogen suggestion though methinks!

Forget the boiling water, you will eventually scald yourself.
I heat up the joints with my work lamp! It has a halogen bulb and gets pretty warm.
I hold the joint I'm working with near the bulb for a count of 30 to 60 depending on the thickness and type of plastic.
That way just the piece I'm working with will be affected, and I never get scalded. It's also easy to reheat if the plastic starts to harden.
The only issue you can have if leaving the part too long and melting the plastic, but that takes a while and is actually hard to do.
Nice looking Forge BTW!

OK, I'm practicing on a spare Cap Marvel as I type. Wish me luck ***Scalds hand***

Once you get the way to do the swap down right, you'll be doing it all the time!

Hmm I'll try the pliers tip there cheers Deadeye! It ended up easier for me this way. And I've repainted hs skin with more tannin like my Thunderbird and Harpoon. It seemed to be all kinds of colours in different comics but I think the yellow reflection does make him look a little jaundice in the pics

Speaking from experience it is seriously hard to do the "robotics" illustrated in the comics - personally I think you did great. I like Forge as he's the one who made the robotics for Wasp and Black Panther in the Marvel Zombies comics so I have a personal bias here. I do agree with Deadeye on the skin tone, but I have little room to criticize as my Daken looks albino I am told. Heh, I guess I can't nail the skin tones either!

Use needle nose pliers (my preference but other pliers work fine too) to pinch the joint back in place and apply cold water to set the heated plastic quickly after boiling and popping
I'm half blind and can't paint eyes well - yet rod work I have no problem with - Docs right tho it does take time and practice
But if an old cyclops like me can do it - you can too wings
and when you run the setting joint under the tap to cool the plastic ALWAYS keeo the plug in the sink as its all so easy to loose a joint pin down the plughole
if the joints STILL loose - I recommend using cheap superglue you get a 99p shops it doesn't set as good as official superglue but it does put frcition in the joint so it aint so loose
stick a few blobs in and start turning the joint as the glue sets being very careful not to bond your skin to the smegger
Excellent Forge btw
Two things tho -
1. hes American Indian and should have a more deeper tan on his face with a slight terracotta reddish tinge
I dunno if its the light bouncing off the yellow suit thats doing it - but he looks like hes comicbook asian for skin pigment
2 - wouldn't it have been easier to use a whole deathlok leg? then fill in the bottom half to make it look natural?
Other than that buddy - you done a wonderful job as usual
~_@

You'd think huh? But I end up either tearing the rods or leaving the knee really loose. At first I thought I was being too rough but I've ruined a load of customs trying

What do you mean you don't have the skill to swap at the knees!? It's just like swapping anything else, heat it up, pop-out the rods, switch the body-parts, pop the rods back in. It should only take you like 2 minutes, practice @_@
And darn, nice paint >_<